Fences in Middle Earth

Since Goatmörser almost completed his LotR board, I myself was highly motivated to start building scenery for LOTR / Hobbit as well. While searching the interwebs I stumbled upon a YouTube-channel of TWS (Tabletop Workshop) having several tutorials for quite good looking and yet not too difficult terrain-making. So I quickly got ready to build some fences during which I slightly changed the TWS-tutorial (but I’ll comment on that a bit later). For building the fences you’ll need: 2mm plastic card for the bases Styrodur pieces (about 15cm x 3cm x 0,5cm) BBQ skewers rattan cane (1,6mm) white glue (PVA) (personally I prefer Ponal) Sand (whatever you prefer) colours to match your gaming board colours for painting the fence ...

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Magnetizing a  Wraithknight

Today I am going to introduce my newly acquired Wraithknight to the audience. First of all: It is a massive kit that exceeded my expectations in terms of detailing and options. But that is exactly the point: options are so numerous that one simply has to magnetize the whole thing… and that’s what I did. When doing so, one must be careful not to stop magnetising with the small parts. Each weapon system has it’s own “ammo cartriges” that will be attached to the arm of the Wraithknight. A quick overview of the different systems: As soon as the magnetising rage got me, I also made a movable head. The kit (and the options of course) also offer different shoulder mounted weapons. Especially with ...

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Tutorial: Eldar Jetbike Conversion

Finally done, here it is: The tutorial for my Eldar Jetbike Conversion I posted last year. It’s easy to do and I made it step by step, for a better understanding. First of all, you’ll need tools of course. Then you will need a few bits. First of all the Russian Jetbike Alternative (I ordered it on ebay, here is the link) and the head, the torso and the backpack fins of a normal Eldar Guardian Defender. The first step is to cut the driver of the alternative kit in half. Be sure you cut right above the tabbard. Be also sure you leave a bit space for easing out wrong cutting angles. Smooth out the surface of the ...

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Casting Shuriken Cannons (Part 2)

After giving it some thought and researching some tutorials, I found something that I hadn’t seen so far: mould making using alginate to create an even mould line. I still had some alginate back home so I tried. Also I decided to use the famous LEGO frame for the mould. Interestingly LEGO produces their bricks in very very odd colours nowadays. But these bricks served their purpose (even though ugly looking). The picture is a bit misleading, since it looks as if the whole bottom was covered with play dough. But in fact it was just enough to place the master model on a tiny hill made of dough. Next step was mixing up the alginate and filling it into the brick-frame. ...

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Eldar Shining Spears Conversion

Today it’s the Eldar getting love again. I always wanted to include Shining Spears into my war host, but (much like the normal wind riders) I don’t like the GW version of the Shining Spears much. In my opinion the whole relaxed “Easy-Rider”-Pose contradicts the background of lightning fast riders hitting their foes out of nowhere. The parts shown above include everything needed for this conversion: a russian jetbike and a shining spears aspect warrior (preferably made of resin). Even though finecast often shows known casting issues, it is really nice for converting, because its very easy to cut and modify. I started with the driver’s seat and the steering device, cutting of a rectangular chunk from ...

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Adding a Shurriken Cannon (aka my first miss-cast)

Yesterday I made my first steps into the world of casting, mould making and (of course) failing to cast resin. But first things first: With the new Eldar codex Jetbikes became so nice again, that I need a lot of them. Being a denizen of Saim Hann it was more than inevitable that I would buy a lot more of these Jetbikes. Returning from a business trip 20 of these fast jetbikes waited for me in a box from Russia. Again the casting quality is superb and I have not found one objectionable jetbike in the batch. Assembling and painting is in progress, but during that work I figured that even though these ...

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Introducing Station λ-Ω

In this post I am going to show you the painting of the Realm of Battle Imperial Strongpoint from Forgeworld. I will also show my Citadel Realm of Battle Gameboard, the little modifications I made and an inside view on the painting. The Board was intended to be suited for my main Army the Imperial Guard from Argos in the first place. The now finished Station λ-Ω is supposed to be the keystone for an upcoming battle.                               ...

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Dwarf for Warhammer Quest

We already had a Slayer (Skorri by scrum) in the Warhammer Quest gaming group, so I decided to create a dwarven hero. In my opinion Elm Ironfist will be good addition to the party of heroes in the dark dungeons of the old world. WHQ prooves to be a very deadly game for all the heroes and the dwarf’s high toughness will hopefully be very useful for his role as a damage dealing tank. Elm Ironfist – Dwarf Elm proudly wears his family’s signet ring, passed to him by his great great granduncle. Being the last decendant of his noble house, Elm Ironfist seeks to shed light on the disappearance of said great great granduncle Lorri Ironfist. Lorri ...

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Painting the Saim Hann Titan

After the singing was done (Part1, Part2 and Part3) I let the Titan dry for about 2 days. This was due to the quite big chunks of putty I used to fill some gaps between the pieces. After the drying was over, I started the painting (which took me about 120 hours to finish). This article is about the painting and the next article will feature the finished Saim Hann Phantom Titan. First of all I have to say: If you dont have an airbrush at your disposal, dont get ...

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Preshades of Grey

Some time ago if got myself an airbrush. At first i used it to prime larger models like terrain pieces or tanks and by time i started experimenting with painting gradients and shadings with the airbrush. As i got more and more familiar with my new brush i tried to do a little more than just priming my models. Today i would like to share some impressions of my first attempt on preshading a large size model with you. I really love to paint miniatures in a red color scheme. However painting red is a real pain in the ass if you want to achieve clean surfaces with a decent saturation of red. It used to take me ages to paint ...

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